You can of course, continue to use your current two-step method. The solution is to use a card reader (a USB mass storage device) meaning: Use a card reader proper OR set your camera to act as a USB mass storage device if your camera has that option. If your camera presents itself as a USB mode 2 device on the USB wire, then C1 acts on "your mode 2 promise" and goes tethering. C1 on the other hand, knows the difference and makes use of it, C1 uses USB mode 2 for tethering. Windows Explorer lets a Media Transfer device impersonate a Mass storage device. Windows Explorer is a member of that family. A lot of computer software can not do camera tethering at all and may use both modes 1 and 2 for file transfer. You need to be quite observant to tell the difference. It confuses some users that USB mode 2 may indeed be used to transfer files, as if a mass storage device is involved. If your camera is like my D800E, meaning it is a USB mode 2 device only, or if you deliberately used a camera option to set the camera's USB to mode 2, then C1 learns that the USB connection is for Media transfer, and C1 goes tethering. C1 can not tell a USB mode 1 camera from a USB card reader, USB disk or other USB mass storage device. The camera will present itself as USB mass storage on the USB port and the computer will not know it is mass storage. If your camera is like my D300, you need to set it to USB mode 1. The D800E has no option for me to select mode 1 or 2. My Nikon D300 has both modes 1 and 2 and a menu option to select which mode the camera should set and use on its USB port, my somewhat newer Nikon D800E came with USB mode 2 only. Some years back, I believe most cameras had USB mode 1 only. You need to know about two USB-modes, I will refer to them as 1 and 2:Ģ) USB Media transfer mode (look up MTP/PTP on the web) Windows sees the camera just fine, so I'm having to import them through Windows, then import them to my catalog and it's taking way too long. Hopefully Fujifilm will be able to fix this soon, sooner than soon.With Capture One 20, for some reason, it's not seeing the files on the camera, so it's not an option to import from. Right now, the latest version of IOS is causing a lot of problems with Camera Remote, the Bluetooth connection part is working fine, but the wifi connection part is messed up for many cameras - it is the same old story, Apple / Android updates their stuff and apps that used to be fine break. Some folks use it with microscopes, I use it with my telescopes, both for checking focus and for a technique called plate solving - which helps you decide if you really are pointing the camera in the direction you think you are. when using the body in manual focus situations, where looking through the view finder / lcd screen is not practical - (highly magnifying the scene) touching the body causes vibrations, which means you cannot tell if the focus is on or just off a bit. 'On' is recommended for faster file transfer and for tablets or smartphones that cannot handle the larger sizes.Ĭamera Remote is very (extremely) useful for checking focus, etc. For the more main line cameras (X-T3, etc.) X Acquire has more features available.įor Camera Remote, the file transfer size setting is found in the camera's Set Up (wrench / spanner) menu -> Connection Setting -> General Settings -> Resize Image For Smartphone (on/off). X Acquire's functions are limited for the not-main line cameras (X-T30 X-S10, etc.) to pretty much being a settings backup and restore which is useful if you have put a lot of time into customizing your settings and want a backup.
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